By Joe Brock
ABUJA (Reuters) - As a band rattled off decades-old R&B hits, the great and the good of Nigeria's political elite and their minions lined up under the floodlights to decide who is likely to become the country's next leader.
A visitor might be mistaken for thinking he had wandered into some sort of glamorous line dancing competition, but Thursday night's ruling party presidential primary is arguably the most important date in Nigeria's political calendar.
Thousands of People's Democratic Party (PDP) delegates, many in colourful traditional robes, flew in from the country's 36 states to convene in Eagle Square, a parade ground in the centre of the capital Abuja.
Luxury hotels were booked out months in advance.
Such is the power of the party that the winner has invariably gone on to secure the presidency, and in a political system that runs on patronage, the primaries are an opportunity to demonstrate allegiances and secure largesse.
Each state delegation -- led by its governor if they are a PDP member, or by a senior party official if not -- shuffles down from their seats in the grand stand to vote in turn at makeshift polling booths. It is a secret ballot, of sorts.
Thirty-seven plastic chairs and tables are lined up in a row in the centre of the parade ground -- one for each of the 36 states and the Federal Capital Territory, home to Abuja.
Up-turned tables separate each makeshift booth, protecting the delegates from prying eyes.
But by separating out each state, and announcing the results accordingly, it is clear who voted which way.
President Goodluck Jonathan is considered the front-runner but faces a tough challenge from former Vice President Atiku Abubakar. Any governor who has convinced his delegation to vote against the eventual winner could find himself out of favour.
"He'll know who voted for him. He'll be able to say, I see everyone in your state voted against me," said one senior party member, declining to be named.
Previous Nigerian elections have been costly affairs.
Former presidents have been criticised for selling state assets to their cronies in order to curry political favour.
Nigeria's main business daily said on Thursday Jonathan's administration had decided not to go ahead with an oil licensing round originally planned for last year because it might look like he was "desperate to settle his political cronies."
Jonathan and ruling party officials have pledged a clean and transparent vote, although Abubakar's camp has already alleged that delegates' lists have been tampered with.
But there were sniggers when an announcement over the loud speakers interrupted the R&B band shortly after voting began.
"A delegate lost a sum of money while he was voting. A member of the civil defence corps picked up the money," the announcement said.
"If you are missing your money, identify the colour of the envelope...the money is yours," it said.
On the basis of past Nigerian elections, brown might have been a good guess.
(Writing by Nick Tattersall)