By Richard Lough
ANTANANARIVO (Reuters) - The long stretch of corrugated-iron stalls stretching out towards Madagascar's international airport should be teeming with foreign tourists buying crafts.
But they are virtually deserted.
Weeks of civil unrest, triggered by a power struggle between the opposition and the government, have led to fighting that has killed 125 people and scared away visitors to the Indian Ocean island.
The political deadlock risks suffocating a $390 million (275 million pounds) a year tourism business in one of the world's most biodiverse islands, and has left many city residents deeply frustrated as their livelihoods suffer.
"Our business has collapsed because we depend on foreigners," said curio vendor Odile Ramanampy. "I suggest the protesters wait for the next elections to make their demands," he added, despite being an opposition supporter.
In central Antananarivo, blackened buildings gutted by fire scar the central 13 May Plaza, the epicentre of opposition leader and former city mayor Andry Rajoelina's month-long campaign of rallies and strikes.
Several dozen people died in one blazing shop.
Calling President Marc Ravalomanana a dictator, Rajoelina has demanded he step down and announced his own cabinet, though his attempts to take over ministries were thwarted by force.
Frustrated by daily hardships and poverty, many of Antananarivo's residents have rallied behind the charismatic 34-year-old former disk jockey, even though plenty of them are now fed up with the disruption to daily life.
Supporters say Rajoelina represents a much-needed new political generation.
"We need change and the failure of talks is a positive," said chicken farmer Claude Rakotonaheta at an anti-government sit-in outside a sports stadium. Rajoelina walked out of talks Wednesday after the president failed to show up.
"We are better off demonstrating because the president has shown he does not want to talk," he said.
"ORANGE" PROTESTS
The government and its backers, who are also rallying support, say Rajoelina is a maverick and a trouble-maker.
"This is a democracy. The opposition should respect that Ravalomanana was elected by a majority," said driver Lucien Randrianivo, whose boss has just sold four of his six taxis due to a fall in business since the political crisis began.
"As things are, we are heading towards a repeat of 2002 and I am heading towards unemployment," he added, referring to a previous bout of unrest.
In Antananarivo, a city of faded French grandeur perched on steep hillsides, the desire for change is palpable among people in the thronging market place and from behind the metal grilles of businesses whose owners remain too nervous to re-open.
Critics say Ravalomanana, a self-made millionaire nicknamed CEO of the Republic, has failed to tackle poverty. He has also treated himself to a new presidential jet and made moves to sell off vast tracts of land to South Korea, they say.
Appetite for "la lutte" (the struggle) has, however, waned somewhat as some opposition supporters ask whether their leader may sell out and take a top government position. A U.N. envoy is trying to revive mediation and take the steam out of the crisis.
"Most people feel that the struggle is over," lamented Sami Makeck, a disappointed city resident who has marched under the opposition banner since day one of the crisis.
The opposition has sought to draw parallels with foreign revolutions including Ukraine's democratic Orange Revolution.
"They (opposition) have worn Orange clothing. But it is only superficial. We are not even in the same situation we were in during 2002," said city businessman Thierry Andrianina.
The world's fourth largest island has a history of political volatility. In 2002, disputed election results triggered eight months of nationwide political chaos and brought the economy to its knees before Ravalomanana was declared victor.
Madagascar has recently opened its doors to foreign companies looking to exploit its vast oil and mineral reserves.
"I am worried about Madagascar's image abroad," Andrianina added. "The crisis will hurt our chances of holding the African Union summit in July ... Madagascar is on the path to development. We need the international community's help."
(Editing by Andrew Cawthorne)
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